Daytripping with wayre: What to Do in Damariscotta, Maine
If you live in Maine, or if you’ve visited Maine in the summer, you know how glorious the state is this time of year. And you also probably know how absolutely mobbed it is with tourists. Try to go to hot destinations like Bar Harbor, Camden, Boothbay Harbor, or heck, even Portland, and you’ll be met with a harsh reality: difficult parking, long lines, traffic congestion, expensive (and sold out) hotels, and generally, way too many people. Tourist season in Maine is a reality of living here, but I still wouldn’t want to be anywhere else from June through August. In fact, most Mainers choose to stay put in the summer – why would we leave? For the vast majority of us, this is the season we wait for. It’s what makes the long, cold Maine winters worthwhile and what sees us through, but still… the congestion in the summer can be frustrating. This is why, instead of planning any big trips this time of year, Chris and I opt for day trips close to Portland, Maine. Day trips feel more accessible for us, and they’re a great way to discover off-the-beaten-path locations that we might not otherwise seek out as locals. Instead of worrying about a place to stay, we pick a spot on the map and go – and this past weekend we chose Damariscotta, Maine. Despite its proximity to Boothbay Harbor and Camden and hearing a lot about Damariscotta from friends and family, I’d never been, which is silly, because it’s just off Route 1 and incredibly accessible. So, with a gorgeous day forecasted ahead of us (the humidity finally broke!) we set our sights on Damariscotta.
Knowing we’d be doing a mix of activities – from strolling through town to walking through a nature preserve – I threw on the Roma Reversible Wrap Dress from wayre (use my code JULIESHARP for 10% off). This dress, let me tell you, it’s SO GOOD. Not only is it made from 86% recycled plastic bottles and 8% recycled spandex, but it feels like wearing your favorite silk dress, minus the heat. The fabric is so cool and breezy and, y’all, it’s REVERSIBLE, so it’s two dresses in one. Also pockets – three of them! Anyway, it turned out to be absolutely perfect for what we did in Damariscotta… ready to come along? Let’s go to Damariscotta, Maine!
An Afternoon in Damariscotta, Maine
Damariscotta is just about an hour’s drive from Portland and the drive north is something I almost always look forward to. DO yourself a favor and hop off 295 North in Brunswick, and take US Route 1 until you get to the turn-off for 1B. Not only is this drive prettier and more interesting (you’ll pass through other Maine towns, like Bath and Wiscasset) but will give you opportunities to check out some other Maine classics, like the many wild blueberry stands that pop up this time of year and the Montsweag Flea Market in Woolwich, ME (it’s not amazing but it can be worth a stop). As you’re rolling through pretty Wiscasset, you’ll see the long line for Red’s for lobster rolls (I recommend opting instead for Spragues, across the road), and you might also spy one of our absolute must-stops….
Coffee stop: Treats, Wiscasset, Maine
We always stop at Treats in Wiscasset whenever we’re headed up the coast. Not only is the coffee excellent, but the baked goods – er, Treats – are SO GOOD, and they have an incredible wine selection. We hopped out of the car and stretched our legs (bonus: the Roma Dress doesn’t wrinkle, so there’s no need to worry about emerging from your car ride or boat ride or plane ride all rumpled), and made our way up to Treats for coffee – cold brew with oat milk for both of us. You’ll also find locally-made gifts, pretty market baskets, and, I believe they still make sandwiches and lunch items (the format has slightly changed due to the pandemic). Treats is an absolute must if you’re headed anywhere north of Wiscasset – it’s just so good.
Treats, 80 Main Street, WIscasset, Maine
Visiting Damariscotta, Maine
Properly fueled, we get back on the road and roll into downtown Damariscotta around 11:30 AM. After driving over the bridge that spans Newcastle, Maine, and Damariscotta, and over the reversing falls, we park in the big municipal lot behind Main Street (even the parking lot has a gorgeous view of the Damariscotta River) and sit on one of the benches that overlook the water while we finish our coffees. As long as you arrive early enough you shouldn’t have trouble finding any parking, but it does fill up. I noticed when we left town a few hours later that there were quite a few cars doing loops around the lot looking for open spaces.
Coffees finished and plan in place, we were on our way and there was only one place that made sense to kick off our day: Reny’s Underground. If you’re unfamiliar with the Maine institution of Reny’s, allow me to (attempt to) describe it to you: One part department store, one part grocery store, one part cheesy gift store, and one part deeply discounted factory seconds. They’re all over the state, and depending on your level of fandom, you may even have a favorite. Anyway, Reny’s is a whole experience and I highly recommend stopping in – and I’m not being ironic. We’ve found some awesome stuff at Reny’s and this trip was no exception: I found a great pair of sunglasses for $6.99! Under normal circumstances, there’s a malt shop attached to Reny’s Underground where you could still get a frappe or ice cream sundae, but they were closed while we were there due to COVID. For the record, there’s another Reny’s down the street - Underground seems to carry most of the household items and shoes, while the other Reny’s carries the clothing. I imagine this split is due to space because I’ve never seen it handled this way in other towns.
Where to Eat in Damariscotta, Maine
After Reny’s, it’s time for some lunch. There are a few restaurants to choose from in Damariscotta, but if you’re there on a Sunday like we were, your options may be somewhat limited. We landed on King Eider’s Pub, which turned out to be great. I got the crab cakes and a salad and Chris opted for some wings and the BBQ pub fires - and oh man, the BBQ pub fries were GO GOOD. The salad was fresh, the crab cakes were super tasty and weren’t fried (yay!), and Chris said his wings were good, too. I’d absolutely eat here again. I was disappointed to see that S. Fernald’s Country Store was closed while we were there – I’ve heard great things about this Damariscotta classic and have heard their breakfast is great. Next time, I guess.
King Eider’s Pub, 2 Elm Street, Damariscotta, Maine
Shopping in Damariscotta, Maine
After lunch, we strolled Main Street and popped into some shops I’d spotted while walking around before. First up was the absolutely darling The Kingfisher & The Queen. This shop… oh! I could absolutely spend too much time here. It’s beautifully curated and features a mix of locally- and Maine-made goods, vintage homewares and curios, stationery, and gifts. I took so many inspiration photos for myself and walked away with a couple of new rolls of washi tape (although I really wanted to purchase much more). I can’t wait to go back for some holiday shopping – also worth mentioning that the prices were incredibly fair.
The Kingfisher & The Queen, 79 Main Street, Damariscotta, Maine
Just down the block, we found Wildings, a relatively new addition to Damariscotta’s Main Street and a lovely one at that. This bright, airy shop sells beautiful plants, furnishings, candles, and gifts from local makers and national brands alike (like Mulxiply and P.F. Candle Co). We were deeply tempted by a very healthy and fairly priced fiddle leaf fig plant but held off for another day. Between the Kingfisher & The Queen and Wildings, I know we’ll be back this fall for some gift shopping.
Wildings, 130 Main Street, Damariscotta, Maine
A few steps away you’ll find the Damariscotta location of Sherman’s Maine Coast Book Shop and the Barn Door Baking Company. I love Sherman’s for their incredible selection of books, and this location did not disappoint. I especially appreciate the staff recommendations and the significant selection of Maine-based authors and Maine-themed books. Attached you’ll find Barn Door Baking Company, where you can grab a coffee and a bakery item if the feeling strikes.
Sherman’s Maine Coast Book Shop, 162 Main Street, Damariscotta, Maine
There are so many more shops and sights to see in Damariscotta, like the cute Lincoln Theatre, the Skidompha Secondhand Bookshop (it’s right on the water and I regret not making time for this), and kayak and paddleboard rentals. it had to wait for another day, though, because it was getting to be around 2 PM and there were two more spots on my to-see list before we headed back home.
A shell midden? What’s a shell midden?
One thing I love about day trips is they require you to really prioritize what you want to do. While I had hoped to see the Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, that landmark was farther away and there was another point of interest close by that had piqued my interest: the Whaleback Shell Midden Historic Site. About a mile from downtown Damariscotta (it’s walkable but I recommend driving, it’s not a particularly pretty walk and takes place mostly on a busy road), this beautiful nature preserve has a rather unique history:
The site once contained a massive oyster shell heap or midden formed over a period of more than 1,000 years by Native Americans. The shells were processed for chicken feed in the late 1800’s, leaving behind just a fraction of the original mounds. Interpretive storyboards relate the history of the middens, their accumulation and destruction, and also share stories of the Upper Damariscotta River
We walked through a pretty field filled with wildflowers and under an ancient, overgrown apple orchard, towards the river. As the day heated up, I was especially thankful for how breezy the Roma Wrap Dress was – I wasn’t hot at all and the slight stretch of the fabric made me feel like I was wearing something mde for hiking. Perfection. Anyway, what you might expect to see here are large heaps of oyster shells - this isn’t what to expect. It’s a beautiful spot with an incredible history and I recommend reading the storyboards to get a better understanding of what you’re looking at. When we found some shells sticking out of the earth, what really blew me away is just how long they’d been there – over 2,000 years.
Whaleback Shell Midden State Historic Site, 535 Main Street, Damariscotta, Maine
Ending the day with a local brew
After so much walking and exploring, there was only one way we wanted to end our day: with a local brew. Maine is known for its amazing selection of locally-brewed craft beer (there’s even a Maine Beer Trail Challenge), and not far from Damariscotta you’ll find Oxbow Brewing’s Farmhouse Beer Garden in neighboring Newcastle, Maine. This was the PERFECT place to end our day - it was sunny, quiet, and the beer is excellent (and I’m not a huge beer person so I think this is saying something). We tried the Surfcasting (a farmhouse ale with sea salt and lime and SO GOOD) and Phosphorescence (a barrel-aged farmhouse ale and also SO GOOD), and grabbed some local oysters, too. Normally I’d be stressed about spilling on myself (why do I only seem to spill on my nicest clothes?), but wayre’s sustainable, recycled fabric is magically spillproof (seriously, these are the best travel clothes). I can’t recommend ending your day here enough. We enjoyed the quiet of the little pond, the late afternoon sun, and the delicious local beer - it was the ideal end to a perfect Maine day trip. If you have time, take a drive through pretty and picturesque Newcastle, another gorgeous and historic Maine village.
Oxbow Farmhouse Beer Garden, 774 Jones Woods Road, Newcastle, Maine
After finishing up at Oxbow, we hit the road and in no time, were back in Portland, ready to hit up the grocery store and prep for the week ahead, my outfit still looking just as fresh as when I put it on at 7 am. wayre’s fabrics are seriously incredible – I can’t wait to test them out in a more rugged environment! So that being said, we’re already planning our next day trip - where should we go next?
Looking for more Maine travel recommendations from a local? Check out my Portland, Maine travel guide and my Mid-Coast Maine travel guide!